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You are here: Home / Archives for 2019

Archives for 2019

Act-N1 – Daring youth on the runway – Story told through the rhythm of fashion, flair, shapes and colors

February 25, 2019 by Aynura Maye

When I started to plan my first-ever visit to the Milan Fashion Week, I was especially careful about the first days of the week not to miss the show of Act-n1, which was on the official calendar. This novice brand is making its first strides in the complex avenues of fashion industry and this would be their second show. Its founders made headlines last year as emerging talents when they won “Who’s on next?” – a contest organized by Altaroma in collaboration with Vogue Talents. These two talented enthusiasts come from different and distant cultures to synthesize their cultural heritage, childhood memories and cherished values into a story told through the rhythm of fashion, flair, shapes and colors. Precisely, one is Galib Gassanoff, from my land, Azerbaijan and the other Luca Lin, from China. Who would think fusion of these two cultures would give birth to some real eye-stealing pieces? And it was not all.

Act-N1, RTW, Milan 2019
Photo: NowFashion

When I entered the show venue, in the usual pre-show confusion the first and most prominent thing in sight was mattresses stacked in piles in the central area of the venue. The thing that we like to keep covered, kind of out-of-sight in the most private part of our house under bed sheets and covers were out in display in stacks in the most central part of the venue. Whatever was supposed to be hidden was proudly out in display… My first thought was – ok, get ready for something real deconstructive. Let’s see.

Act-N1, RTW, Milan 2019

Soon the models started to walk along the aisle. Yes, there were lots of deconstructive nuances to the pieces like sweater sewn together with tulle, experimental combination and layers of unmatching fabrics and pieces, but also there were lots of pastel colors, refined textile and romantic details as if the designers attempted to sew together distant memories of childhood – both warm, heartwarming and cold, somehow shattering. The surprise was in the arrangement how the models made their way through the stacks of mattresses…. Sometimes they walked by and around, but sometimes they started to crawl, roll or walk over the mattresses. The way the young designers see how the problems and hurdles along the paths are tackled. This staging was intriguing. In fact, those scenes were among my Instagram stories that received the most mixed responses. In that moment one thinks – isn’t it the purpose of a beautiful show? To trigger mixed emotions and leave spectators in puzzle with mixed feelings?

Act-N1, RTW, backstage Milan 2019

Whoever is somehow related to the fashion industry, knows how hard to it is to enter and even harder to impress. Maybe it was because of their unafraid youthful dare, they managed to add this intriguing detail which well-established, reputable fashion houses might not dare to. Maybe this was the reason they achieved so much at such a young age. To me, this is exactly that small, secret ingredient in the nature of the new/youth that empowers it to dethrone the already settled “old conformism” which debilitates itself by undervaluing and looking down onto this visually small, fragile yet fast-growing youth that is full of potential.

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When the show was over, I went to the backstage to greet them, obviously they were busy with models, taking photos etc. In sheer contrast of the preponderant show they put out there, they were very down-to-earth, somehow fragile, aspiring designers who visibly were making their path with hard work and dedication, just like the models making their way through, by, above and over the mattresses. It was simply emotional to be there and see that sparkle in the spirit of these young potentials.

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The Italian version of this article is published at the Fashion News Magazine.

Filed Under: Fashion Tagged With: Act-N1, deconstruction, fashion, fashion symbols, Fashion Week, Galib Gassanov Luca Lin, Milan, RTW

Striking similarities in the language of art and fashion

February 10, 2019 by Aynura Maye

Art and fashion have their wonderful ways to step in to say in a very crisp manner what the words are too shallow and too vague to utter. And even what I find astonishing is how different forms of art can translate and communicate shared feelings and sentiments in a strikingly similar fashion.

“Artfully” distracted and fragmented

Apollo in defragmentation, Marta Minujin. Photo: Instagram account of Marta Minujin

Let me get a bit specific. Before moving to Italy (when fashion was not really my area of interest), I was in Argentina mostly studying psychoanalysis and interested in many ways that art could communicate the most ineffable notions of our psyche. After moving to Italy, fashion became another fascination of mine in a way how it can be the mirror to the cold reality of our times and wishful hopes of our hearts. Since I moved to Italy three years ago, I can’t really differentiate between art and fashion. Not that I see the all pieces of garment as a piece of art. Yet I believe, each final product somehow says so much about the designer. Not about what the designer wanted to communicate, but what was really her/his state of mind, what she/he was living through or what was running thru her/his mind during the process.

Maison Margiela, Couture 2018. Creation of John Galliano to express defragmented, nomad mind. Photo: Internet

Sometimes, the similarities I see in ways art and fashion communicate shared human sentiments are striking. One of such similarities I’d like to talk about is between the art installations of Marta Minujin, an acclaimed Argentine artist and John Galliano, well-respected designer of Maison Margiela.

Little background information for those who do not know Marta Minujin. This flamboyant artist hails from Argentina and is the queen of pop art, performance art, “happenings” etc. She was a friend of Andy Warhol. I loved her free, deconstructive, mind provoking installations. Back in 2010, she explained her fractured monuments and statues as follows – we are so distracted, bombarded with lots of information in every given second, it is hard to pull ourselves together. This theme manifests our confused, defragmented state of mind, all over, never concentrated.

“Fashionably” decayed

As we lived along the collective concussion caused by the digital disruption more-less the same concept translated into the Couture pieces of John Galliano in his 2018 collection presented in Paris with strikingly similar designs – fragmented, layered, kind of all-over the place, nomad minds.

Marta Minujin against her own installation, Photo: Internet

A year passed. Came along another Couture week. Maison Margiela presented an outstanding presentation of “walking art pieces” translating decay, artifice, excess. Almost the same concept of some other installations by Marta Minujin – which I see as an expression of our current badly-functioning memory unable to forget (ditch), clean, organize and systematize. State of serious confusion.

Excess, decay in the creations of John Galliano, Maison Margiela, Couture 2019

Now I am looking at photos and still can’t get over how sharp the language of art and fashion could be in transmitting a message that the words are powerless to describe. Above all, how some shared sentiments can translate into strikingly similar visual messages by different forms of art.

Filed Under: Fashion Tagged With: art, fashion, John Galliano, Maison Margiela, Marta Minujin, similarities

Fashionable U-turn – Elegance and feminine flair a la Couture

January 29, 2019 by Aynura Maye

Cheers to the fantasy function of our mind not to let us die from the cold reality.

I can’t attest for others but what my eyes saw was a different kind of couture from the last year’s. This was definite comeback of the elegant feminine flair, sometimes exaggerated, but in general quite wearable in fact.

Chanel Couture Spring Summer 2019 Paris, Photo: NowFashion.com

This couture was feast of sequins, feathers, layers and layers of organza and tulle put together with painstakingly delicate hand-work. Colors deserve a special mention – from pastel colors of tranquility to splash of bright colors (yes, talking about Chanel and Valentino). Sincerely, I see this U-turn as a manifestation of the regenerative and compensatory function of our psyche for the latest tumultuous couple of years we’ve lived. Our longing for hope.

Balmain Couture Spring Summer 2019 Paris
Photo: NowFashion.com

The Mirror of Our Times a la Couture

Well, until Maison Margiela hit the runway. Right at the U-turn are exactly two radically different tendencies (oh, that regular contradictory nature of opposites, right?) – Comeback of elegance – soberly composed yet delicately suggestive feminine flair on one side expressing cry of our soul to pull our fragmented mind together and John Galliano yet again artistically putting on runway the cold reality – our already disturbingly fragmented state of mind. He rightfully calls his work the show of the excess, the artifice, the decay. Yes, the whole show is very colorful and artisanal but clogged, just like our clogged mind and badly functioning memory. I can’t help seeing striking similarities with the works of Marta Minujin, an Argentine artist, who is famous for recreating the “mess” of our fragmented mind and clogged memory.

Maison Margiela Couture Spring 2019 Paris
Photo: NowFashion.com

His previous couture horrified me a year ago, not that it was bad, just because it was like a not loved mirror that reflected the flaws one doesn’t want to see. This time around he has taken it to a whole new level – sincerely, I find it as a theater inside a fragmented mind living a trauma or I must say the concussion came with digital disruption in the era of consumerism.

Schiaparelli, Couture Spring 2019, Paris. Photo: NowFashion.com

Beauty Stripped Off Its Beauty

Talking about the concussion of disruption, I think we are still good. True, suddenly the fashion herd had painfully revealed that it can’t survive in its isolated glossy bubble anymore, the “ideal beauty” had a major blow while fashion turned into tool and chaotic platform of resistance against canonized societal restrictions and flaws. At another note, the silent majority got a platform to scrutinize and question the once-cherished-but–turned-to-hypocritical-cliché liberal values, which gave rise to populism leading to the most unexpected election results in certain key places.

Which naturally was followed by “high way – my way” attitude that led to borders and nations suffer from isolation and race for self-gain. Big masses simply preferred to shut doors and windows tight, burying the sense of collaboration and empathy, the greatest lessons of the devastating two world wars. We literally live memory concussion intensified by the disruption. And living with the bare reality as John Galliano has put it is really tough. It is freezing cold there.

Givenchy Couture Spring Summer 2019 Paris, Photo: NowFashion.com

But again, I think we are still good. Sometimes it seems to me the great world wars had somehow stemmed from the industrial revolution, the disruption of those days. Of course, the speed of time was different back then. I mean the concussion and memory clog caused by disruptions could be that bad if we choose to roll with the one-sided cold reality.

Valentino Couture Spring Summer 2019 Paris, Photo: Internet

Again, back to fashion. Last year the Anglo-Saxon fashion and media played a crucial role in bringing fashion down to the terrestrial dimension where we mortals live and struggle with social issues every single day. As I said above, the “ideal-beauty” had its quite duly generous dose of scrutiny. Being well-grounded and tackling social issues through the grace of fashion is a strong weapon to readjust already canonized rules and frames.

Desire for Fantasyland

However, burning the bridge to our fantasyland, the source of our hope would backfire. We can’t uproot ourselves off. Our cold and meaningless reality is too much for us to carry. Call it hope, beauty, ideal, fantasy  – whatever label we put on – it is the source of hope. It is what gives meaning to our gray reality and reason to roll into the next day. How we have canonized this concept (hanger thin silhouette or curvy, fluffy softness) doesn’t matter. It is the compensatory function of our mind. The more we suppress it, the stronger it makes its comeback.

Last year the fashion world was swept by the cold reality of flaws and wrongs of our earthly life and viola. This year we are flooded by the products of our fantasy land to compensate the bitterness of reality – sequins, layer and layers of tulle, organza, feathers. The pieces might have been exaggerated, but they were elegantly composed and even suggestive. Even mens’ collections from the previous weeks were somehow soberly composed.

This time I saw cry of our soul for some fantasy, wishfulness. I saw our need for fairy tale that will house our unprotected soul in face of our disturbing reality. The sheer attempt of our mind to compensate for what is missing in our physical dimension.

Filed Under: Fashion Tagged With: alta moda, Balmain, couture, fashion, fashion symbols, Givenchy, Haute Couture, high fashion, luxury, Maison Margiela, Paris, PFW19, Valentino

The Untold Story of Hermès

January 14, 2019 by Aynura Maye

Sky-rocketing price and unaffordability aside who doesn’t love the sight of the Hermès Birkin bag and the stories revolving around it? Even my Google news feed sometimes pops up articles about the celebrities who were seen with it. The enigma of this House is not only about its products, but also its name. The general story is that the Fashion House took its name from the namesake Messenger God. Obviously Hermès was born as a brand specialized in travel accessories (back in times when travel accessories meant horse tack and supplies). So the name of The God who is believed to travel all the time seems to be the right fit. But what kind of messages he used to deliver?

Hermès as a symbol of full transcendence – coming from the depth of underground going upwards to paradise.
Photo: the Internet

The God Hermès that everybody knows

The typical description of the God Hermès goes like this: Hermès is a “psycho-pomp” – that is to say soul-guide. Its statue is a piece of stone – Herm that has Twined Snake around a staff on one side and an Erect Phallus on the other. Next to him there is a sort of tree in a very simple form. Let’s call this composition statue. This statue used to be placed in crossroads alluding to its capacity to travel between worlds. Because like a shaman, Hermès used to guide the dead to the underworld and bring messages from there (bizarre huh?)

Let’s leave behind the logical reasoning and dive into a dimension where concepts transcend the rational and limited meaning we ascribe to them. Then we’ll see what Hermès really represents for us.

Design detail – winged feet of Hermès. Photo: the Internet

If I have to sum up in simple words, Hermès symbolizes the transmutation of soul through the history of evolution.

Not Messenger Only God Hermès

This myth talks us about times when an early man started to rise from the darkness of instinctual life (symbolized as the underground world) towards his/her way to acquire rational thinking (terrestrial life). This young Hermès has a metamorphose nature. He is not a underground force only (meaning, the purely instinctual element of the unconscious). He is also connected to the conscious life. However with capacity to still descend into the dark layers. He symbolizes the process of transcendence. While having a foot in the underground he travels from one dimension to another. How? This part is really funny.

Herm – the initial and simple version of the God Hermès. Photo: Man and His Symbols, C.G.Jung

He penetrates thru darkness of the unconscious into the light of terrestrial life (a.k.a light of reasoning) with his Erect Phallus. I know you are laughing now. But it turns out this is how our mind works at very deep levels. That childish and archaic mode of thinking is still there. Erect phallus is overly sexual of course. But in that dimension, phallus translates into fertility and not physical fertility only, but creative power of the psyche, fecundating, life giving power as well. The twined serpents are in sexual union. Again, sexual not taken literally, but equal union of the opposites that is transcendental, wholesomeness.

Almost as a rule, terrestrial and water animals symbolize our instinctual drives, forces of the “underground”. Reptiles being intermediate creatures with a capacity to live in two different environments, allude to this transcendence – arising from the depth of dark uncontrolled mass towards the world of light – the conscious reasoning.

Hermès – the symbol of full transcendence

Hermès is a living symbol that has been subject to elaboration. In middle ages, it acquired wings which denotes to rising from terrestrial life towards spiritual transcendence.  Wings symbolize this transformation. Even the caduceus in his hand that is a symbol of healing got wings at the top of the serpents. Thus our little fellow acquired a power of full transcendence – coming from the depth of underground going upwards to the paradise.

Not by chance, in the chain of living things we are the only ones who come from darkness of instinctual world of animals with aspirations to mature into spirituality of paradise. We are the terrestrial beings just between underground compulsive forces and heavenly angles.

To close, the soul each of us carry is Hermès destined to evolve through these stages. So, every time, you see an Hermès item, remember, there is a small Hermès inside you too and is way more valuable than anything money can buy.

Filed Under: Fashion & Myths Tagged With: depth psychology, fashion, fashion symbols, greek mythology, Hermes, high fashion, luxury, myth, mythical characters, mythology, the Birkin bag

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Aynura Maye

Currently exploring the know how of Made in Italy through the stories of those who create it. Individuals.

Also, tracking fellow youth from my land Azerbaijan who built themselves in Italy.

Enjoy xx

Aynura

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