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You are here: Home / 2019 / Archives for February 2019

Archives for February 2019

Act-N1 – Daring youth on the runway – Story told through the rhythm of fashion, flair, shapes and colors

February 25, 2019 by Aynura Maye

When I started to plan my first-ever visit to the Milan Fashion Week, I was especially careful about the first days of the week not to miss the show of Act-n1, which was on the official calendar. This novice brand is making its first strides in the complex avenues of fashion industry and this would be their second show. Its founders made headlines last year as emerging talents when they won “Who’s on next?” – a contest organized by Altaroma in collaboration with Vogue Talents. These two talented enthusiasts come from different and distant cultures to synthesize their cultural heritage, childhood memories and cherished values into a story told through the rhythm of fashion, flair, shapes and colors. Precisely, one is Galib Gassanoff, from my land, Azerbaijan and the other Luca Lin, from China. Who would think fusion of these two cultures would give birth to some real eye-stealing pieces? And it was not all.

Act-N1, RTW, Milan 2019
Photo: NowFashion

When I entered the show venue, in the usual pre-show confusion the first and most prominent thing in sight was mattresses stacked in piles in the central area of the venue. The thing that we like to keep covered, kind of out-of-sight in the most private part of our house under bed sheets and covers were out in display in stacks in the most central part of the venue. Whatever was supposed to be hidden was proudly out in display… My first thought was – ok, get ready for something real deconstructive. Let’s see.

Act-N1, RTW, Milan 2019

Soon the models started to walk along the aisle. Yes, there were lots of deconstructive nuances to the pieces like sweater sewn together with tulle, experimental combination and layers of unmatching fabrics and pieces, but also there were lots of pastel colors, refined textile and romantic details as if the designers attempted to sew together distant memories of childhood – both warm, heartwarming and cold, somehow shattering. The surprise was in the arrangement how the models made their way through the stacks of mattresses…. Sometimes they walked by and around, but sometimes they started to crawl, roll or walk over the mattresses. The way the young designers see how the problems and hurdles along the paths are tackled. This staging was intriguing. In fact, those scenes were among my Instagram stories that received the most mixed responses. In that moment one thinks – isn’t it the purpose of a beautiful show? To trigger mixed emotions and leave spectators in puzzle with mixed feelings?

Act-N1, RTW, backstage Milan 2019

Whoever is somehow related to the fashion industry, knows how hard to it is to enter and even harder to impress. Maybe it was because of their unafraid youthful dare, they managed to add this intriguing detail which well-established, reputable fashion houses might not dare to. Maybe this was the reason they achieved so much at such a young age. To me, this is exactly that small, secret ingredient in the nature of the new/youth that empowers it to dethrone the already settled “old conformism” which debilitates itself by undervaluing and looking down onto this visually small, fragile yet fast-growing youth that is full of potential.

https://fashionsymbols.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/VID_53600905_071027_518.mp4

When the show was over, I went to the backstage to greet them, obviously they were busy with models, taking photos etc. In sheer contrast of the preponderant show they put out there, they were very down-to-earth, somehow fragile, aspiring designers who visibly were making their path with hard work and dedication, just like the models making their way through, by, above and over the mattresses. It was simply emotional to be there and see that sparkle in the spirit of these young potentials.

https://fashionsymbols.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/VID_53601205_003446_265.mp4

The Italian version of this article is published at the Fashion News Magazine.

Filed Under: Fashion Tagged With: Act-N1, deconstruction, fashion, fashion symbols, Fashion Week, Galib Gassanov Luca Lin, Milan, RTW

Striking similarities in the language of art and fashion

February 10, 2019 by Aynura Maye

Art and fashion have their wonderful ways to step in to say in a very crisp manner what the words are too shallow and too vague to utter. And even what I find astonishing is how different forms of art can translate and communicate shared feelings and sentiments in a strikingly similar fashion.

“Artfully” distracted and fragmented

Apollo in defragmentation, Marta Minujin. Photo: Instagram account of Marta Minujin

Let me get a bit specific. Before moving to Italy (when fashion was not really my area of interest), I was in Argentina mostly studying psychoanalysis and interested in many ways that art could communicate the most ineffable notions of our psyche. After moving to Italy, fashion became another fascination of mine in a way how it can be the mirror to the cold reality of our times and wishful hopes of our hearts. Since I moved to Italy three years ago, I can’t really differentiate between art and fashion. Not that I see the all pieces of garment as a piece of art. Yet I believe, each final product somehow says so much about the designer. Not about what the designer wanted to communicate, but what was really her/his state of mind, what she/he was living through or what was running thru her/his mind during the process.

Maison Margiela, Couture 2018. Creation of John Galliano to express defragmented, nomad mind. Photo: Internet

Sometimes, the similarities I see in ways art and fashion communicate shared human sentiments are striking. One of such similarities I’d like to talk about is between the art installations of Marta Minujin, an acclaimed Argentine artist and John Galliano, well-respected designer of Maison Margiela.

Little background information for those who do not know Marta Minujin. This flamboyant artist hails from Argentina and is the queen of pop art, performance art, “happenings” etc. She was a friend of Andy Warhol. I loved her free, deconstructive, mind provoking installations. Back in 2010, she explained her fractured monuments and statues as follows – we are so distracted, bombarded with lots of information in every given second, it is hard to pull ourselves together. This theme manifests our confused, defragmented state of mind, all over, never concentrated.

“Fashionably” decayed

As we lived along the collective concussion caused by the digital disruption more-less the same concept translated into the Couture pieces of John Galliano in his 2018 collection presented in Paris with strikingly similar designs – fragmented, layered, kind of all-over the place, nomad minds.

Marta Minujin against her own installation, Photo: Internet

A year passed. Came along another Couture week. Maison Margiela presented an outstanding presentation of “walking art pieces” translating decay, artifice, excess. Almost the same concept of some other installations by Marta Minujin – which I see as an expression of our current badly-functioning memory unable to forget (ditch), clean, organize and systematize. State of serious confusion.

Excess, decay in the creations of John Galliano, Maison Margiela, Couture 2019

Now I am looking at photos and still can’t get over how sharp the language of art and fashion could be in transmitting a message that the words are powerless to describe. Above all, how some shared sentiments can translate into strikingly similar visual messages by different forms of art.

Filed Under: Fashion Tagged With: art, fashion, John Galliano, Maison Margiela, Marta Minujin, similarities

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Aynura Maye

Currently exploring the know how of Made in Italy through the stories of those who create it. Individuals.

Also, tracking fellow youth from my land Azerbaijan who built themselves in Italy.

Enjoy xx

Aynura

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