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You are here: Home / 2021 / Archives for March 2021

Archives for March 2021

Why Should We Concern About Givenchy “Hoof” Platforms?

March 30, 2021 by Aynura Maye

As usual, I am quite late in this – the queen of procrastination. And I hate myself for that. Meant to write about it weeks ago. The Givenchy show somehow left a bitter taste in my mouth. I just can’t get over these “hoof” platforms. Something feels quite unsettling. They keep reminding me of a tragic story of another genius designer. I did little social media intelligence to see if people get the same vibes…and yes, some do. These horse hoof-like platforms very much resemble the sneak heels by the late Alexander McQueen, eternalized by Lady Gaga in the days when she wasn’t a full blown global celebrity yet.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CMIDafcr3dT/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

What I find worrisome is what happened to Alexander McQueen after that show where those platforms were an integral part of his all serpent show. The show had such a mesmerizing effect that nobody seemed to question from where such overpowering images were rising. The tragic news following that show brought into light the serious problems that troubled his mind and soul deeply. He was struggling with devouring serpents. Maybe that show was his call for help. Maybe it was his cathartic cry to strip those serpents off their power, to liberate his mind? Who knows, one thing is clear now – he was being swallowed by those serpents while he was creating that show and the whole set up was the sketch of the drama happening inside…I don’t doubt this a second.

Now these bright red platforms were presented in a vast, dark space as @suzymenkes puts it – with brutality and fear. They do not resemble snake. They recall horse hoofs. This is the point. Although not entirely same as snake, horse as well, is a very powerful, archetypal symbol. I am pretty much sure, in every culture there is a tale that has a sort of horse in it – a white horse, black horse, winged horse, three-legged horse, even horses that can talk, have vision, give advice etc. In some fables, especially of religious nature, the horses may have amphibious nature. The symbol of horse, rising from deep psychic pool of the collective unconscious like snake, denotes the deep processes happening inside.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CLjl7pfANrl/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

In this dark pool where the memory of humanity is stored, animal symbols generally stand for instinctual drive, our lower life. Horse too – it’s sub-human, the powerful, free-reining instinctual drive that is limitless, overpowering and if not controlled destructive. It represents dynamic power of instinctual life that doesn’t care about societal norms, frames and taboos. It doesn’t have self-control, tends to grow bigger until it destroys us and subject to panic. For us, horse means locomotion as well, a beast of burden – either we learn to ride it or it takes free rein galloping us away like a surge of instinct.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CI6ESRFA5TA/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Activation of psychic forces that produce the image of horse is an unsettling thought. When I think little more about it, the more I worry about other details too – for example – the choice of color – especially, red and black. Why the choice has fallen on these colors that symbolically mean so much, specifically when combined with the image of horse. (Fairy tale readers would know a thing or two about white or black horses).

Was it designed to the taste of Z-gen? Then should we worry about Z-gen too? Again, as @suzymenkes puts it – is it about belonging to a community of cool or a cult? I just hope in these trying times, it is nothing more than just a creative effort.

Filed Under: Fashion, Fashion & Myths

Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2021 – #pfw, #aw21

March 11, 2021 by Aynura Maye

The Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2021 is over and now it is time for my 10 picks. To tell the truth, it somehow seems to me, although weird at the beginning, the limitations have been played into opportunities by the major fashion folks. Yes, the conventional fashion shows do not exist. The crowd, glitter and liveliness are not there. But these unique times have unleashed imagination. Fashion shows that are turning into fashion films have taken communication of concept to a whole new level. Right, necessity is the mother of invention. And yes, I do still find myself tuning to the film, the message, the feeling with which the film was made. Instead of focusing on the pieces, my mind races to decipher the why. Why have the choice for film, for topic, for background fallen onto that certain choice. I should say, some films are simply amazing.

For the sake of fairness, using my own judgement, I’ll create 10 themes (again of films) and categorize the shows, pardon films based on these themes.

10. Enhanced functionality, or upside-down, inside-out

Beautiful people – Double End
https://www.instagram.com/p/CL_ikuQAqGN/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
Rick Owens
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A post shared by eyesmagazine 아이즈매거진 (@eyesmag)

Thom Browne
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A post shared by Thom Browne (@thombrowne)

K I M H Ē K I M

9. Romantic, Elegant, Nostalgic

Elie Saab
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A post shared by ELIE SAAB (@eliesaabworld)

Andrew GN
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A post shared by Andrew Gn (@andrewgn)

Chanel

I think, couple of words are due when it comes to certain maisons. I’ve watched over and over to this film and read carefully every word @Virginieviard has said about her inspiration. Also the song in the beginning – Do you know where you are going to? by Diana Ross. Yes, all is about this film. But also, it’s about she herself – to my humble opinion, which is very normal and natural. Her choice of venue, song and style – everything seemed to me her evolutionary attempts to cast the cocoon shaped around her by her predecessor. I may be wrong, but this was the vibe I was feeling and I loved the ski spirit, the contrast between outer wear and delicate pieces, very French look of models.

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A post shared by CHANEL (@chanelofficial)

Danny Nguyen Couture

8. “Travel is luxury” – adopted from Balmain

Balmain
Loubutin
Miu-Miu

7. Unwearable grounded oooor domesticated

Paco Rabanne
Balmain
Altuzarra
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A post shared by ALTUZARRA (@altuzarra)

Marine Serre
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A post shared by MARINE SERRE (@marineserre_official)

Nina Ricci
https://www.instagram.com/tv/CMCfHCNDJg1/

6. “Disturbing beauty” – adopted from Dior, but Dior is not in this category.

Yamamoto
Givenchy

A separate post is coming the Givenchy design and designer. Somehow I find it worrisome.

Koche
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A post shared by KOCHÉ (@koche)

Kenneth Ize
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A post shared by Kenneth Ize (@kennethize)

5. Fo Eva Witty Extravaganza and Party

Schiaparelli
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A post shared by Schiaparelli (@schiaparelli)

Lanvin
https://www.instagram.com/tv/CMJvbDUI0OE/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

4. Leaning on history and legacy to orient for future

Loewe
LV
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A post shared by Louis Vuitton (@louisvuitton)

Giambattista Valli

3. Cathartic

Dries Van Noten
Vivienne Westwood
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A post shared by Vivienne Westwood (@viviennewestwood)

2. All Consuming Wonderland – Fairy Tales and Cryptic Dances

Dior
Hermès

1. Champs of Sustainability

Chloé
https://www.instagram.com/tv/CL9O4s6CO1Y/
Marine Serre
Hermès

Filed Under: Fashion Tagged With: #aw21, #pfw, aynura maye, fashion, fashion symbols, Fashion Week, Paris, Paris Fashion Week

Fashion film, not fashion show any more – #MFW #AW21

March 3, 2021 by Aynura Maye

And my ten picks

Now that Milan Fashion Week Fall Winter 2021 is coming to an end, I’ll be consistent with the practices I’m trying to build and work out my 10 picks. To be honest, after so many months of disruption, I feel like there are oceans between me and the frivolous world of fashion.

During this period, with everything going platonically digital, sincerely, I find myself tuned more to the entertainment, theatrical side and immersive experience than to the collection. I wonder if there are people out there who can’t concentrate on old good catwalk like me? Catwalks were what I was looking forward to in the last season, but this sudden change of expectation I discover about myself makes me realize another thing. Maybe, much is said about it. Yet I am sharing my own thoughts as one should do on her own platform.

Apparently, something is happening that will never go away. Fashion design has gone beyond 2D presentation. Even after the pandemic is over (hopefully) and we resume our pretty flat two dimensional life, fashion design and presentation will never be two dimensional. The battle for fleeting attention of the global audience is growing more fierce. On top of product design, the designers now have to do in-depth study and experimentation to find new ways of three dimensional immersive experience. Right, experience is what fashion shows were about. But, there is some major difference – before presentations were constrained to the show venue as a backdrop. Now there is no such constraint. It is liberating in a way. Yet, now they have to create that all consuming, feel-real yet surreal digital backdrop that will not complement the collection and the concept, but enhance it. It seems like fashion shows are becoming short fashion films.

To sum up, I find it paradoxical, in the hey days of the fashion weeks I would kind of get horrified of the spending and vanity surrounded the shows. When there are so many living in dire conditions around the world and many kids lose their lives because of malnutrition, such extravaganza seemed superfluous and unjust to me. Now, with all this vanity existing only in the nonexistent dimension, I kind of find it beautiful and maybe even necessary.

I think, I’ve given enough explanation to declare why I’ve made my selection over total experience rather than collections only. It is true, I find the feminine yet resolute flare of Elisabetta Franchi enchanting. The chic, sharp yet flowing curves of Alberta Ferretti are simply beautiful. Yes, Armani as usual nailed it with fabulous fabrics. I have a feeling that Valentino’s designs, especially net outwear will become composed folk songs of the season. Especially, the tribute to the Piccolo Teatro, which holds so much emotional value for Milan and Italians is commendable. However, I’ll judge with foreign eyes, no emotional value attached, as purely fashion newbie from outside. This way around I’ll pick shows that were more than fashion show, were theatrical and immersive.

All that said, after religiously watching all of the shows, sometimes more than once, I’ve piled my list of ten fairly distributed between new names and established maisons. By the way, I find new designers more apt in this unfolding novelty and observe a more conceptual approach to immersive experience creation. Kudos.

Finally, let’s get into the names:

10. MM6 Maison Margiela

That inside out, upside down, reverse mood – each and every one of us, each and every day.

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A post shared by MM6 Maison Margiela (@mm6maisonmargiela)

9. Francesca Liberatore

I do not know why she picked this theme. But her ascetic style made it even more powerful. War has been a deeply wounding experience personally to me about 27 years ago. It shaped my life, destiny and preconditioned many depressive cycles I’ve lived periodically. And it came back last year to my homeland after 27 years. Her collection simply talked to my heart.

8. Del Core

I am just in love with their magnificent images and conceptualism.

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A post shared by @delcoreofficial

7. Vìen

Lately, I’ve been hearing a lot of real life stories about mental health issues of (particularly) teenagers, or the youth going through a prolonged puberty. Some stories are appalling. Rising cases of adolescence suicides, I think, it is high time that fashion starts conversation about it. For this matter, I see this collection very relevant and timely.

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A post shared by VÌEN (@vien_atelier)

6. Act 1

Ok, I’ll be very honest, I can’t be indifferent to these guys. One of the duo is from my homeland. From the way he relates to the traditions (of which I am part of) and the delicate way he dismantles everything into pieces I can recognize his pain. I can feel his personal quest to rebuild himself through the deconstructed lines. And the shows they put out is sometimes blood freezing.

https://www.instagram.com/tv/CLwRjQyo5kE/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

5. Human Poetics by Polimoda

Besides being a wonderful initiative, I found this film as a great culture guide to Firenze. The imaging is spectacular.

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A post shared by Milano Fashion Week (@milanfashionweek)

4. Philipp Plein

Well, simply, I think, it is that immersive fashion experience. My 11 year old didn’t like the film, he called it “cringe”. But I think it is just that “hate whatever mom likes” attitude of a pre-adolescent boy. Well, I liked it. So here it is in the list.

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A post shared by Philipp Plein (@philippplein)

3. Dolce Gabbana

Besides everything else, this duo should be crowned as masters of music choice – that very single thing that I could have my son agree with me. The music of the last season was awesome too.

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A post shared by Milano Fashion Week (@milanfashionweek)

2. Versace

Maze is the answer to everything. It has so many layers of meaning that we better not even start to question. Well, it is in the DNA of Versace and the show was a magnificent reinterpretation of the Greca pattern. If we exclude the monochrome styles that confused me and I had to remind myself constantly that I am not watching a Fendi show, but a Versace show, it was a sophisticated show put together with high flying models. And those platforms too…. I mean, I hope they just stay inside that fantasy maze and not make their way into the stores. Please, Donatella…

https://www.instagram.com/tv/CMCT7zvDBZy/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

1. Moschino

I do not know how many times I’ve gone back to see this show. I mean, laugh and humor is what has kept us going through this period, really. And this show to me was a production of genius mind.

Hit the play for some humor and quality time if you haven’t watched it yet. Do not miss the il gran finale! Lumière! Musique!

https://www.instagram.com/tv/CL2RJEYCGEV/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Featured image: moschino.com

Filed Under: Fashion, Uncategorized Tagged With: #aw21, #mfw, aynura maye, fashion, fashion symbols, Fashion Week, Milan, milan fashion week

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Aynura Maye

Currently exploring the know how of Made in Italy through the stories of those who create it. Individuals.

Also, tracking fellow youth from my land Azerbaijan who built themselves in Italy.

Enjoy xx

Aynura

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