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Invisible Shades of Success. Artist Designer Fidan (Ilqar) Abdullazade

May 12, 2022 by Aynura Maye

And her journey to build herself in Italy – what it takes an outsider artist to settle down in the cradle of art.

The guest of Galosce Zhiguli for this month is Fidan Ilqar. I didn’t know her before and it was a pleasant surprise to discover her in Italy. She is one of those unusual people who has two sides to her – laid back creative soul and stubborn, result oriented mind.

At some point in her life she made a decision that so many don’t find courage to make and linger stuck in one place for years. At the blooming moment of her career in her hometown Baku she has decided to leave everything behind to build herself in Italy, the cradle of art and creativity. Was it easy? Absolutely no. Was it worth it? Absolutely, yes! Now she is glad to have resisted long enough to arrive in a place where she is already thinking to realize her dream project. A creative intiative that would bring people together from Italy and Azerbaijan. She just gave a hint to it, not much information, we have to follow her to see what she is up to.

Our talk also gave an interesting insight into what it takes for creative people to build themselves outside of their own culture from resilience, adaptability, openness to grow to the strength to handle the pain of growth – not an easy feat.

Enjoy. Do not forget to check out her portfolio on Behance.

Click this link to read Azerbaijani version of the article here

When one goes thru this process, one realizes that being excluded is very real in a culture and country where one does not belong. One really tests the boundaries of one’s will.

– Fidan

Fidan, how did you make the decision to leave your life behind and move to Italy to build yourself?

Back in 2008, after graduating from my bachelor degree I went to Florence for master’s degree at Florence Design Academy. Then I returned home upon gradution and started to work as a freelancer and also in different creative agencies. It was in my last workplace thru which I had to visit Milan in 2013 and there something clicked, my love for Italy decided everything for me for the coming years – second master’s degree at IED (Istituto Europeo di Design) and eventually building myself in Milan. I found the projects that we did during my studies at IED with the industry and business quite attarctive, so next I was interested in professional experience. Back then, at the end of my studies my university found an internship for me at a construction engineering company that was designing Kirazli-Halkali subway line in Istanbul. I was in charge of interior design of the station. I didn’t extend my contract when my time was up as I was interested in more artistic work that required more creativity.

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A post shared by FiDanΑrt_Designer ARTist (@fidanart)

Did you find what you were looking for?

By the time my internship was over I had realized that I needed to learn Italian language well to be able to integrate and open new doors. So all my focus was on learning the language and the culture. In fact, the miracle happened afterwards. As I started to connect with Italians and local people, doors started to open up for me and offers started to flow in. That is how I started to work as free lance designer and artist.

What were your studies excatly?

I did my bachelor degree on industrial design at Baku Academy of Fine Arts. But in general, I’d describe my profession as artist designer. I did both of my master studies in Florence and Milan in interior design. But my work is not limited to those only. By nature I am a creative person, since early years of my life I’ve participated in artistic contests in the country and in the larger region and always went home with recognition, often holder of the first place. When I say artistic contests, I do not mean painting only, also photography.

I have a feeling that free lance work is what you prefer.

Well, I am a creative person and to create I need my own space, my own atmosphere. I’ll confess something – the internship that IED has found for me would have been a door to success for many. But not for me. I couldn’t see it as success. And the reason is that there was little space for creativity. It was mostly engineering work based on strict schedule. This was the only reason why I didn’t want to renew my contract.

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A post shared by FiDanΑrt_Designer ARTist (@fidanart)

How did you manage to survive and thrive in a foreign country as an incomer without a stable job in such a competitive sector that you are in?

I truly believe in what I am going to say. Everybody who decides to build her or his carrer outside of her or his home country, in a foreign country goes thru a deep transformation. It is a depressive process. One either makes it or doesn’t make it. I came to Italy to study once and returned back. Second time I didn’t want to repeat it. I was determined to make it happen here, so that dreadful transformation process was inevitable. The test wasn’t easy at all. In fact, the contrary is true. I endured a moral and emotional test, pain of transformation and growth. When one goes thru this process, one realizes that being excluded is very real in a culture and country where one does not belong. One really tests the boundaries of one’s will. That is what I did. Yet I promised to do my best so that when I fail, I know that I’ve given my best and I’ve tried my best. The first barrier was the cultural one. I had to learn the language and undertand the culture to be able to mingle in. I was determined to test my will. That is how it all started. In fact, miracle happened after I learned Italian. I was able to integrate and mingle with local people. Eventually, I managed to build contacts with galleries and even collaborate with them. That was the moment when success started to smile at me. I had promised myself to do my best, to test the boundaries of my own will. I just didn’t want to regret later for not trying.

All in all, I should say it wasn’t easy, not at all. I tested my mental and emotional boundaries on this path. But along the way I got to know people and made connections that changed my life. Now I’ve built a certain circle and certain life.

Tell us about your paintings?

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A post shared by FiDanΑrt_Designer ARTist (@fidanart)

Well I’ve started to paint since childhood, colors have always been part of my life, source of my fascination. With years I realized that  it is how I express myself, it is my way of communicating with the world. When I was small I used to paint still life, put out installations etc. I have participated at contests and have always gone home with recognition. Currently, I work on a series called Woman. This is what I find close to my heart now, thru this series I try to transmit many qualities woman carry – tender, sensual, strong, caring so many qualities behind her soft looks. As for the technique, I use different techniques. My preferred technique used to be oil on canvas, but now I opt for mixed technique. At the moment, I am collaborating with different galleries in Italy.

I should say, it hasn’t been an easy journey. Only after learning Italian this window started to open up. Building connections in that world makes the difference. It is a constant work. The last collaboration was with Fuori Salone with the Woman Series of mine in 2018 Design week of exhibition “Giardino dei visionari”.

How did you handle the first months of the pandemy? I mean the period of lockdown?

To be honest, it wasn’t that bad. Like everybody else, together with my Itlaian roommate we closed ourselves in. That time I used to work for Gucci. I worked more than I did before, but I wasn’t bored. I didn’t feel how the time passed.

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A post shared by Gucci Beauty Official (@guccibeauty)

Tell us more about your work at Gucci.

It wasn’t easy to get a job at Gucci. Only a year after I submitted my job application they contacted me. Even though my background was in interior design, they had offered me a job in graphic design. That is how I started working there. What was new for me at Gucci was the attention they paid to each detail. Maybe in stores these details are not even noticed, but we spent a month or two on each small detail. Sometimes I think we underestimate details. Sometimes it is the details that keep a certain product in market for years. The department I worked at was responsible for accessories design, colors etc. It was an invaluable experience. But now I’d like to start a project of my own.

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A post shared by Gucci Osteria (@gucciosteria)

I am curious what sort of plan do you have in mind – will it be in Italy or in Azerbaijan?

I’d rather not give out much information beforehand. But it will include art, painting, creativity, will be something between Italy and Azerbaijan. The objective of the project will be to bring two cultures – Azerbaijani and Italian culture together. I truly believe in power of exchange and integration of ideas, cultures. In that case both sides learn, not just one side. We will learn from Italians, also they will learn something from us, at least they will be informed about this part of the world.

What would be your advice to Azerbaijani youth who wants to follow dreams?

Education is important. Knowing how to use application is not enough. Design is not that simple. It is good to know techinical parts of work, but not enough. Talent is important. To me, equally imprtant is to always try to expand one’s horizon. Curiosity, traveling, learning new things are important. I had a teacher who used to say do not sit at home to come up with an idea. Once you walk out of your door you’ll see that idea has been thought and realized many years ago. Stay hungry to learn, do not try to create great things, try to modify a small detail of something. That will be newness. That’s why always learning from others, exchange and interaction are important.

.

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A post shared by FiDanΑrt_Designer ARTist (@fidanart)

“Made in İtaly” – what does it mean to you and how we can benefit from this know-how?

The first word that comes to my mind is Quality. Quality and durability. We, only thru interaction and exchange of youth, can find ways to benefit from this experience. I’d say we have very talented youth and qualified professionals, people with great craftsmanship and great ideas. I mean, the potential is there, it just needs to be rediscovered, retrained and exposed.

Click to read Azerbaijani version of the article

Filed Under: Galosce Zhiguli, Uncategorized Tagged With: artist, Azerbaijan, ceativity, designer, interior designer, Italy

ACT N1 – Galib Gassanoff

December 27, 2021 by Aynura Maye

Brand: Act N1
Co-founders: Galib Gassanoff and Luca Lin
E-shop: actn1.com

The first guest of the “Galosce, Zhiguli” series is Galib Gassanoff – an emerging designer in Milan, co-founder of the fashion brand Act N1. His designs and garments are his way of dealing with his childhood memories and thoughts on traditions, human rights, freedoms etc. Contrasting elements making parts of a whole garment is the defining feature of his designs.

Galib Gassanoff (left), Luca Lin (right) – Co-founders of Act N1. Source: actn1.com

Galib, if I’m not wrong, it was 2017, friends in Italy were forwarding a news to me. It was about a young Azerbaijani fashion designer Galib Gassanoff, who together with young Chinese designer Luca Lin won a prestigious fashion contest organized by Vogue Italy and Altaroma. As far as I understand, it is quite a competitive contest. Tell us about this contest, in general, and how all it happened with you, with which design did you guys join?

When we knew about this contest, we were already preparing our third collection. So we submitted it. After a few rounds we reached the final round. This contest, “Who is on Next?” is established in 2005 to support emerging designers in Italy. Especially in 2017, in the year when we participated, the jury was made up of prominent faces in fashion. Among them were Silvia Venturini Fendi, Pier Paolo Piccioli, Giambattista Valli, Suzy Menkes and Sara Maino. 

“Who’s on Next” 2017. Galib Gassanoff and Luca Lin together with Emanuele Farneti and Silvia Venturini Fendi. Source: Galib Gassanoff.

We, together with my creative partner Luca Lin created ACT N ° 1 in 2016 based on our childhood memories. In our collections, we regularly talk about social issues, problems, human freedoms and our cultures. The collection we presented at the abovementioned  contest was about unity, respect and love, regardless of religion, language, race or gender. In the clothes, we used the details of Azerbaijani carpets, as well as prints inspired by the traditional watercolors of China. To cut short, the jury was impressed by our work and this brought us victory.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BWUm-OZHneL/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
The collection that brought victory to Galib and Luca. 2017

So up until then you had already set up your own company, right? How and where did you create it? What category do you design, what is your entry price?

Yes, after studying fashion design and art direction in Milan, in 2016 we set up the ACT N °1 brand in two rooms at my partner Luca’s house in Reggio Emilia. As we both know dressmaking, we managed to take off with little investment. Although we started with women’s, over time we moved to unisex. Now we are starting with men’s. At the moment, we are presented in more than 80 multi-brand boutiques around the world. In addition to Italy, our brand is offered in the United States, China, Japan and other countries.

The positioning is entrance to luxury, and the price range is comparable to Max Mara. Twice in February and September of 2021, we introduced the ACT N ° 1 x Marella limited capsule collection globally in all Marella boutiques.

Sala delle Cariatidi – Palazzo Reale di Milano. Source: Galib Gassanoff

As a result of this victory, the Italian Fashion Chamber or Camera Moda has included you in the official calendar of Milan Fashion Week. How many times a year do you have a show on this calendar? Also, please tell us a little about the preparation process for the shows. 

Since September 2018, we have a regular schedule. The show takes place twice a year, in September and in February at Milan Fashion Week. The show is a major event that brings together the press, buyers and critics. Preparations take about two months and we work on the new collection, music, lightining, installation, five-day casting, fitting etc. Finding venue is one of the most difficult part of the preparation work. Milan Museum of Technology and the Royal Palace were among the most remarkable venues that we were able to present our shows.

Museo della Scienza e della Tecnica Milano, Sala Cavallerizze. Source: Galib Gassanoff

Let’s focus on Azerbaijan. I know that you are in touch with passionate youth in Azerbaijan and you guys carry out some projects. How, you think, we can benefit from Italian know how, Made in Italy experience and where do you see a potential? 

At the moment, I see a lot of potential for interior design in our youth. But I do not feel it in fashion. There is some talent, but they either do not have proper means or shy away from expressing their creativity. Self-confidence is at the heart of everything. It is necessary not to stop, to look around, to grow by showing interest in different areas. I think we need to draw conclusions from the Italian experience. We can build the industry just by learning and applying.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CWX4P_-tuZd/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Do you have any specific project regarding fashion, culture, or design?

I have ideas and plans to develop some sectors – let it be art or industry. My wish is that the unknown talented youth gets to express their creativity, emerge and build bright future. We have a great theater history, but I think we need to upgrade the quality of the costumes. Equally, our heritage of national costumes is very rich. I think it would be very good both to enrich this heritage and to define criteria to ensure quality of these garments. In general, I think there is need for some series work on this area.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CXQu8RqNpu7/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Your advice from lessons learned to Azerbaijani youth who wants to purse their dreams like you?

There is no need to make excuses. Follow your dreams. Express yourself without fear or hesitation. Look around, explore, one grows thru learning. You will often hear “it is impossible!” Do not listen. What matters most is that you believe in yourself. If you do, everything will work out.

Click to read the original interview in Azerbaijani language.

Filed Under: Galosce Zhiguli Tagged With: actn1, AQA Series, aynura maye, designer, emerging designer, fashion, fashion designer, Galib Gassanoff

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Aynura Maye

Currently exploring the know how of Made in Italy through the stories of those who create it. Individuals.

Also, tracking fellow youth from my land Azerbaijan who built themselves in Italy.

Enjoy xx

Aynura

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