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You are here: Home / Archives for Alessandro Michele

Alessandro Michele

Gucci’s Ark of Noah. Why are we all Noah?

October 16, 2018 by Aynura Maye

Now that I am on water symbol, I’ll have one more post to dig a bit deeper on water. Gucci just released its new theme for #GothicCampaign recreating the Ark of Noah and this is perfect one to pick on.

Gucci #GothicCampaign - recreation of Noah's Ark. Photo: Internet
Gucci re-created the Ark of Noah Ark for #GothicCampaign
Photo: Internet

Now Alessandro Michele takes on Deluge and the Ark of Noah, one of the early stories of Genesis. It is one of those themes that we know can’t be true, yet some part of us secretly believes that it may be true. And surprisingly it is, but in a symbolic way. Because it talks about some parts of our existence that is unknown to us obscured in the dark abyss of our psyche. We are well aware that the myths are not history, or biography or some sort of historical record. Then what is it about that touches us so deeply? In a nutshell, they are about the psychic processes happening inside us expressed through symbols in an exaggerated fashion. We sense that they tell us something, but can’t discern what it is. It is that dreamy symbolic language that puzzles us.

The Deluge and the Ark of Noah Ark is the story of our consciousness (or Ego) taking control over the unconscious content narrated in the highly symbolic language of the unconscious. Every object in the myth is purely symbolic and holds certain meaning. Let’s try to “translate” this myth.

Deluge

In psychoanalysis and dream analysis water is symbol of the unconscious – the dark abyss which is house to uncontrollable and powerful instinctual urges. The darker and the more turbulent the water, the more unease in the unconscious. So we know what Deluge stands for – the unc­ontrollable and wild nature of our unconscious.

Noah

One of the earliest prophets of the mankind is very symbolic of the very process of the birth of the consciousness. This is the element of our psyche that is in power to take control over the unconscious urges and impulses and give direction – make decisions. By the way, we’ve laboriously developed this precious “skill” over millions of years and with it we’ve distinguished ourselves from the rest of the living things and the dark totality of our unconscious. This is the reason why “prophets taking control of waters in ark or over some sort of fish” is a recurrent storyline in many religions. It is kind of the way our unconscious has registered the evolutionary process in its peculiar symbolic language.

Animals and the perfect harmony

The next question is of course, what about the animals and the perfect peace between animals and humans? Again, let’s have a look at recurring image of prophets – a good shepherd. Do we remember Orpheus? Who created perfect harmony when he played his lyre? Or Jesus? Yes, he was Shepherd too. Noah himself is kind of good shepherd who created perfect harmony among living things. Animals notoriously stand for our biological or instinctual impulses, in other words our low animalistic drives. Good shepherd is the one who through the virtue of the consciousness and wisdom has tamed his animalistic impulses and created harmony in his soul.

Translation into our common language

The myth of Noah is the story of how we gradually “woke up” from the pure instinctual life and separated ourselves from the animal kingdom and developed the consciousness (Ego). He is symbol of mankind, who has learned to navigate on the dark waters of the unconscious without being absorbed by back by it. And even give direction to his/her life.

What Noah means for each of us

We all pass this “Ark of Noah” period when we start to develop consciousness when we are babies at early toddler age. So he is a living symbol inside us. Also, as long as we tend “to lose our mind”, in other words, fall victim to our impulses and feelings, the Deluge will be an ever-present danger for us. Because those emotions are rooted at powerful forces deep inside. In the background we always live with the peril of our consciousness being devoured by the Deluge, in other words, literally lose our minds.

I wonder who will bring so much mysticism with hippy twist to Gucci besides Michele Alessandro. Who will touch so gracefully to this ever-present stories of our soul in fashion industry. I found the video just brilliant. Very much looking forwards to his creations on this theme.

Filed Under: Fashion & Myths Tagged With: Alessandro Michele, Deluge, depth psychology, fashion, fashion symbols, Gothic Campaign, Gucci, myth, Noah's Ark

The “A La Gucci” Great Hermaphrodite and Why We Hit Mid-Life Crisis

June 19, 2018 by Aynura Maye

What is in there for me: What is behind the mid-life crisis? Why suicides and divorces surge in the second half of life? What keeps us from being happy? Ultimately, are we all hermaphrodites? Too many questions for a short post, but believe me, you’ll at least get a hint.

The full post starts here.

A year ago Alessandro Michele dressed The “A la Gucci Great Hermaphrodite” with a red Gucci T-shirt for GucciCuise18. As usual, the reactions were everything from revulsion to admiration. I am not about that. What I want to talk about is how Gucci, unknowingly or maybe knowingly tapped on a symbol that holds so much for our mental well-being – The Great Hermaphrodite.

The Great Hermaphrodite. We are psychologically wired to recognize and integrate the “opposite gender” within. Only then we tend to find meaning in our lives. This process is symbolized as the Great Hermaphrodite in alchemy. Photo: The Internet
The Great Hermaphrodite. We are psychologically wired to recognize and integrate the “opposite gender” within. Only then we tend to find meaning in our lives. This process is symbolized as the Great Hermaphrodite in alchemy. Photo: The Internet

Read about Why sexuality and spirituality in fact are two sides of the coin in the depth of our mind
Read about Yayoi Kusama’s overly sexual art and how her uncontrollable energies took her on this journey

Ops, We all are hermaphrodites…but without Gucci

It is a rather complex symbol. I’ll start from where we all know. Everybody knows that due to our biological structure, men carry small amount of female hormones, and women small amount of male hormones.

Now, let’s look at the psychological side of it. As usual, the resonance goes very far in the depth of our mind – it means in every man there is a small, hidden woman and in each woman some hidden man. That small woman inside man is called Anima (man’s soul). It is one of the unconscious forces of very strong power because it is deeply hidden.  Animus is on the contrary the man inside woman.

“The other side” within

Attention, now we are not talking strictly about genders now. Below the threshold of the consciousness, there is no duality. Now we are talking about the qualities that are ascribed to the feminine nature (receptivity, passivity, sentimentality etc) and the masculine nature (reasoning, action, penetration etc). The Anima is responsible for all of the female tendencies in man’s psyche and is an aspect of personality that normally is concealed from everybody, even the owner himself.

The Cycle of Life – sexuality and “the other”

Accept or not, during the first half of life sexuality is central to our being. Strictly talking about men, at this period, they keep polishing their “manly characters”, ego, thirst for power etc. But as we step into the second half of our lives and slowly leave sexuality behind, our nature changes. A spontaneous desire is born inside for spiritual growth and maturity. The female aspects within are what guide the man to learn to control his animalistic instincts and lead him to maturity. The same tendencies happen with women too, but everything reversed.

Divorce, suicide and more – even Gucci can’t help

At this period, when internal tendencies change towards spirituality and maturity, we still like to cling on to our previous life style and desires. That’s when a separation in our psyche starts to take place. Dressed in Gucci, or no Gucci, we constantly feel something is missing. That’s when, instead of opening up to the hidden tendencies, we start to blame our partners. The wider this psychological divergence, the more serious are the consequences (anything from depression to divorce to suicide).

In short, we are psychologically wired to recognize and integrate the “opposite gender” within. Only then we tend to find meaning in our lives. This process of integration of the psychic polar opposites is what symbolized as the Great Hermaphrodite in alchemy. In many other cultures it is also known as the Sacred Union or Sacred Marriage.

Read about Why sexuality and spirituality in fact are two sides of the coin in the depth of our mind
Read about Yayoi Kusama’s overly sexual art and how her uncontrollable energies took her on this journey

Filed Under: Fashion & Myths Tagged With: alchemy, Alessandro Michele, divorce, Gucci, GucciCruise18, mid-life crisis, psychoanalysis, suicide, the Great Hermaphrodite, the unconscious

Instagram – Friend or Enemy of Fashion?

June 5, 2018 by Aynura Maye

The Barren Land and the Phenomenon of Alessandro Michele –
My thoughts upon seeing GucciCruise19.

Sometimes things touch us so deeply. They stir certain inexplicable emotions to the point we feel our hair stood on end yet we can’t explain why, like Promenade Des Alyscamps as venue of the GucciCruise19. Because the choice of venue talks about something that is known, yet unknown. Something that we knew once, but have forgotten long ago – the wisdom that once upon a time death wasn’t the end of life, it was the way of receding of the old for the new life to bloom. Life cycle was considered circular not linear, the concept behind the Ouroboros – recurring symbol in Gucci design. That is why the birth of a new collection in the land of death was so fascinating to many. But it takes quite some effort to make this connection to realize why such a choice unconsciously hits the “soft spot” and triggers such deep emotions.

GucciCruise19 - death as inspiration for new collection. Photo. Internet
GucciCruise19 – death as an inspiration for new collection. Photo: Internet

I intend neither to describe nor to analyze another much-debated, much-intriguing and much-putwhateveryouwant show of Gucci for Cruise19. First, people talked enough about it in just one day. Secondly, a thorough analysis of all the concepts and all the symbols would take days and days (which actually I am doing slowly). On the contrary, I’d like to share my opinion on what kind of paradox the Instaeuphoria created for the world of fashion and how his genius Alessandro Michele “reversed the flow” tapping this paradox online and on the runway.

Promenade Des Alyscamps - Cemetery turned into a Promonade. Venue for GucciCruise19. Photo: Gucci.com
Promenade Des Alyscamps – Cemetery turned into a Promenade. Venue for GucciCruise19. Photo: Gucci.com

Two faces of Instagram

The day Instagram went viral it paved a way to a paradox for the world of fashion that has been ripening silently. Precisely, the obsession of our eyes for ephemeral beauty and the cry of our souls for eternal grace.

Captivating the world with the spell of picture-perfect ephemeral beauty was the main card for the world of fashion in those good old paper days. But when ‘gram made picture-perfect beauty so mundane, the internet got inundated with beautiful images without depth. Instahype broke the “beauty” spell of the fashion world. Fashion started to feel like sex without love. It felt good right at that moment, but nothing to remember couple of minutes afterwards. Minds bloated with another “barren” beautiful image started to look for something more meaningful than just good looks. Something that could stir deep emotions within and leave some traces in the memory. This was the paradox. While the whole fashion herd rushed to Instagram to harness fame and awareness, they exhausted the bullets of the strongest weapon they had – captivating power of ephemeral beauty.

Disarmed beauty, bloated minds, inundated Instagram

No matter how much one loves ephemeral beauty there is a limit to which point one can stomach. After hitting the saturation point, we start to search for something that talks of depth. Something that doesn’t talk about egoistic and snobby individualism (that was and still is central to modern beauty), but something that goes farther. Something that talks about continuity of life, participation in society, courage to experiment, embracing identity – all of which give sublime messages of hope. Here enters the stage Alessandro Michele.

Thousand faces of beauty

This is exactly what he does resiliently and persistently. The looks he runs through the runway can hardly be called beautiful by the modern standards instilled in us. Yet, every show hails like a storm in the Internet. He questions the ephemerality of the very concept of beauty by re-creating thousand faces of beauty across ages and cultures. In the same time, the core concept for his creations goes beyond the ephemerality of physical look. The imagery always offers depth and refers to symbols that are impossible to comprehend with rational thinking. They in a sense talk about inexplicable hope. Hope for regenerating capacity of our nature – something new, yet something was once known but forgotten, the Ouroboros.

In times when we feel like lost souls in the ocean of information with no horizon in sight, deep inside we are desperately looking for some clues to navigate our way. When something resonates with us so deeply, we realize that is the clue we’ve been looking for. The clue is the in conventional wisdom that lies in our memory deposit. That is where we feel at home, recharge and make our way back into the future.

Related articles:

Gucci sends fashion back to roots – RTW Fall/Winter 2018

Filed Under: Fashion Tagged With: Alessandro Michele, fashion, Gucci, GucciCruise19, Ouroboros, symbols

Gucci’s Garden of Earthly Delights …. Where to Look for It?

May 14, 2018 by Aynura Maye

What’s in there for me: Something big – a solid answer for this much debated topic of humanity. It would be naive to take The myth of Creation as a historical record. In fact, the first stories of the Garden of Eden date to a much later date than the earthed bones of early hominids, Homo Habilis. I mean, we talk about some 2 million years of difference. So, at the time the Eden’s Story was born, our ancestors already had some sort of clothing. It was not Gucci obviously but they had already covered their private parts. In short, this story is not a historical record. It is not biography of Adam and Eve either. It is a symbolic illustration of how our psyche has experienced the process of evolution, namely, the birth and separation of the consciousness. It is the way how our unconscious translated the process of growing consciously different from the rest. And it is also the story of hope. Hope for what? Read the full post to find out.

Read the blog post “That wasn’t technically fire – what was it?” to learn more about the nature of the conscious and the symbols that illustrate the pain of being consciously different.

The full post starts here.

With arrival of Alessandro Michele, Gucci has become a Garden of mystery. Some interpretations are unnerving to me, I accept. Regardless, I love scrolling their Instagram feed full of mystical and historical references.

This is my first try of Gucci and I’ve chosen a widely known myth of Garden of Eden with “fashionable” touch of Ignasi Monreal.

Rework of Bosch's Garden of Earthly Delights by Ignasi Monreal for Gucci. As usual, he beautifully mixes mythical with mundane.
Rework of Bosch’s Garden of Earthly Delights by Ignasi Monreal for Gucci. As usual, he beautifully mixes mythical with mundane. Photo: Internet

Our First Parents? Dressed in Gucci Style or Nude?

The original version of this retouched artwork is visually somehow different from “conventionally accepted” image of Garden of Eden as it carries quite some touch of author’s own visions. But the storyline is similar. We are talking about origins of universe and emergence of our first parents.

It is amusing to learn the fact that the first stories of Garden of Eden date to a much later date than the earthed bones of early hominids, Homo Habilis. I mean we talk about some 2 million years of difference. In other words, talking chronographically, when Adam was kicked out of that Walled Garden of Eternity and landed on mortal Earth, this place had already been populated with his fellow species long, long time ago. I am sure, he didn’t feel lonely. By the way, I guess they already had some sort of clothing.

Part of the original art "Garden of Earthly Delights" by Bosch. Photo: Internet
Part of the original art “Garden of Earthly Delights” by Bosch. Photo: Internet

Life in Garden of Delights – Not as Stylish as Gucci’s

Let’s see before being kicked out how was his life. Adam was in Garden of Delights enjoying his lazy and solitary yet immortal life. At the center of this Garden there were two trees – the Tree of Knowledge and the Tree of Immortality. There were four rivers in the garden, flowing from inexhaustible sources in four directions to keep the world refreshed. He was bored, so God created his counterpart, Eve out of his rib.

The treacherous serpent curled around the Tree of Knowledge whispered about the marvelous forbidden fruit of the Tree to the woman. Obviously she gave in, because, she herself is a symbol of temptation (in the eyes of Adam). She even convinced Adam. They tried the fruit of the Tree of Knowledge and suddenly became aware of their differences and got ashamed. They got expelled from the Garden for eating that fruit. To make things worse, the God put two wrathful protectors in front of the gates so that they couldn’t sneak in.

I am writing another post about this lower relatedness aspect of woman as homage to the Gucci’s Great Hermaphrodite art work. Also a separate post about Snake. Stay tuned.

Absurdity All the Way

Although ridiculously absurd, this story runs along the texts of all of Abrahamic religions. Even uncontaminated cultures have their own versions with similar symbolism – precisely, the Tree and the Snake. How one can believe in this bizarre story and actually consider it as actual records of beginning of the universe while our facts are telling us a totally different story? Now one needs to ask this question – did really this place exist?

Answer from psychoanalysis is yes and no. No, because, there is no Paradise (walled enclosure) on an already well-explored Earth. Yes, because, it is our inner reality and this explains why such a weird absurdity has managed to gain so much fame. It is not a historical record of the origin of the universe. Yet it is how our psyche has experienced the process of evolution, namely, birth and separation of the consciousness. This story is manifestation of man’s longing for pre-conscious sense of totality in symbolic language of unconscious. But it is not only about longing, it also talks about hope.

Second Look at Symbols

Let’s get into translation. It turns out that it was the Knowledge, the Awareness that put us behind the protected doors. It was time for us to get out of that Garden. So that treacherous Snake – the symbol of “Eternal Wisdom” set up the “plan”.

At some point in evolution, we developed a capacity to judge everything in terms of good and bad which we perceive as fear and desire. In mythological language, our first parents “ate the fruit of knowledge” and became self-aware – the characteristic feature of consciousness. So it was the nature of our reasoning that closed those doors to our face.

Self-awareness was not the only revelation. Then it downed upon them that there is a thing called death while they are lustful creatures with desire to live. So fairy tales abound with stories about search of elixir of life and man’s desire to transcend mortality. Because, although we can’t taste that bliss any more, we haven’t lost the knowledge that there is a dimension of our nature that transcends mortality.

The Cost of Being Consciously Different

This differentiation of ourselves, development of consciousness has cost us to lose that “eternal, timeless completeness” – the period now babies experience from the moment of conception until early development of consciousness (does that explain why they are good at being happy?). Then for the rest of life try to experience it again.

Read the blog post “That wasn’t technically fire – what was it?” to learn more about the nature of the conscious and the symbols that illustrate the pain of being consciously different.

Religions are our cry for such transcendence – our hope to transcend this carnal world of duality to experience that “timeless delightful state”. Because it is when the “self-aware” consciousness will let go its petty “me and mine” game and will experience transcendence through self-sacrifice and submission to higher order. Enduring spirituality is where he hopes to experience these delights that are beyond duality of opposites – worries and desires, temptations and fears, light and dark.

Paradise… Where is it?

But not all is lost. That walled eternal land still resides inside each of us, in the depth of our dark psyche, protected by cultural ogres, fire breathing dragons, many-headed scary creatures, which we come across in myth and fairy tales. They are personifications of our worldly attachments and survival instincts. Remember, the God put two frightful monsters in front of the doors?  We are talking of the same thing now. The way to return there is to defeat all these roaming instinctual forces and give back that “fruit”, which made us aware of ourselves and our surrounding. In other words, sacrifice our consciousness. Precisely, the way to immortality goes through Death, let it be physical death or symbolic death to our worldly attachments.

Only thru total renunciation of ego-oriented attachments the return is possible to that state of eternal bliss free of worries and temptations. But this time the experience is not that of a baby. It is that of a mature person in the form of immortality of spirit. Nothing carnal.

Related posts:

That wasn’t technically fire – what was it?
The Secret Story of Symbols”
The Unconscious – The Great Mother, The Conscious – Overconfident Kid

Filed Under: Fashion & Myths Tagged With: Alessandro M, Alessandro Michele, alta moda, art, conscious, fashion, Garden of Earthly Delights, Gucci, high fashion, Ignasi Monreal, Paradise, psychoanalysis, unconscious

Gucci sends fashion back to roots…

May 10, 2018 by Aynura Maye

Gucci has made quite stir in elusive world of fashion with the latest show of RTW Fall/Winter 2018. No surprise, with Gucci’s Alessandro it is always a stir. Pale looking models were carrying around replicates of their heads, almost real-looking snakes and dragons in an operation room with operation chair in center. Some had third eye on their hands with myriad of ethnic twists to the looks. Some people found it unnerving, some awesome, some were confused, some didn’t understand at all. All for a reason. This scene resembled an initiation ritual with ghostly participants.

Models carrying deeply mythological motifes - dragons, third eyes, replica of their own heads. Gucci show - RTW, FW2018
Models carrying deeply mythological motifs – dragons, third eyes, replica of their own heads among others.

Gucci show – RTW, FW2018

Alessandro played a different card – to move to the next phase, he went back to basics, he shed light on a long-forgotten knowledge. The knowledge that fashion was not born out of the need to please eyes and tap only on sensuality. Fashion was not born to work as money-generating machine. Fashion, in the first place, is byproduct of “mystical participation”. The rituals where novice members of early societies were initiated into their roles in a neatly defined societal structure. Their “looks” symbolically communicated their role in that structure.

In this sense, primeval fashion used to be looks of medicine men, shamans with feathered headwears or of hunters with daunting chains around their necks made of horns of hunted animals etc. The root of fashion lies in taking on a social mask that represents the specific spot of each individual in a given society. Outer look used to be means, not the ends by itself. Now, with Gucci’s “cyborg-like” creations fashion takes on the same function again, it questions where we are and where we fit now. Actually, I do not think someone would call this collection sensual (which by the way has almost always been a strong card for Gucci). He had a different message and my take is as follows:

My take on the set:

To me it represented, in a more dramatized manner, the “liquid times” we are going through. In times when societies got protected by borders and distances, each survived and flourished upon certain set of moral foundations that defined general frame for every aspect of life. Yesterday traditional dresses characterized cherished values of societies and enjoyed emotional bond with those who put them on. Now, however with all the digital noise, fading borders and fusion of tastes we live in state of cacophony. Today, everything is everywhere, anything can go with anything – no bond, no emotions, no curated matching and it may feel like post-human. The experimental combinations may come out beautiful, creepy or transitory – the message that I think the collection delivered clearly. The process in making.

My doubts:

Although the concept he’s put forward is interesting, one thing is clear that he’s stepped away from what made fashion a “sweet spot” of humanity.  Namely, the tendency to please eyes and tap on sensuality. There is a reason why with time fashion became limited to only sensuality and beauty.  Deductively, outer looks turned into its only reference with no inward ties. To put it in an unpolished manner, “low” chakras are where money circulates. We have capacity to reach angels. Yet often times we find ourselves in the grip of our basic instincts of sexual desire and power quest. So, I wonder, how this new strategy will impact on Gucci sales.

My touch on the set-up:

I wish I were his genius, but we all have our opinions, right? I’d replace the operation chair in the middle with something that is pure representation of unconscious. For example, an unexplored forest, dark waters or infinite deserts. Why? Alessandro’s explanation of his vision is clear. He is the Hero busy with creating his world populated by personalities honed by his sentiments on our time in his laboratory. Another version would be to make these ghostly creatures (models) come out of a set that represents depth of unconscious. He aimed to break thru the “canonized rules”, yet every urge of destruction rises not from conscious, but from unconscious. The unknown new gets ripen there which will break into conscious only through destruction.

Symbols of Transformation

Furthermore, snake and dragon are unmistakable symbols of transformation. But they are not always that peaceful and friendly as they were in the hands of the models. Study of mythology tells us that they are personifications of our fears, desires and compulsive impulses. Each of these forces always try to get upper hand in our consciousness. The task of conscious is to tame and subdue them just like how Hercules fought. Otherwise they will grow into many-headed, flame-breathing wrathful dragons and swallow the conscious. But to defeat them the Hero needs to “re-vive” the moral values of the society he belongs. Because that is where he’d find the tips and mystical powers to subdue that dragon and experience transcendence.

Now that those moral foundations are vanishing, we are back in square figuring out where to turn to re-establish that connection with the inner space and outer space. In a sense, this set with a new twist to the centerpiece would symbolize our pledge to re-establish new set of morals, which would enable us to carry those snakes and dragons in as peaceful and friendly manner as they seemed in the show. As a result, It would also portray the process of the birth of new transcendent identity.

In general, these moments of chaos are times when new identity is born – usually more embracing, more universal.  I am curios to follow his next creations to see how he visualizes it.

This article was originally published at fashionnewsmagazine.com in Italian and in English.

I’ve made slight changes to this version to make it easier to read as a blog post.

Filed Under: Fashion Tagged With: Alessandro Michele, analysis, cyborg, depth psychology, dragon, F/W, Fall/Winter, fashion, Gucci, psychoanalysis, RTW, Show, snake, third eye

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Aynura Maye

Currently exploring the know how of Made in Italy through the stories of those who create it. Individuals.

Also, tracking fellow youth from my land Azerbaijan who built themselves in Italy.

Enjoy xx

Aynura

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